One day at Pulicat

Pulicat travel

Recently I started working on a project that helps the Pulicat Palm leaf Women’s Co-operative society to create new products. Those who follow me on Instagram would have seen glimpses of this society and the products that they create. But more on that later. This post is more about my travel to this old colonial Dutch town. Pulicat is just about 70Km from where I live, but this is the first time that I have ventured there. In this post, I would like to give an introduction to the quaint little town of Pulicat and what you see/do there in a day.

One day at Pulicat

Situated on the barricade island of Sriharikota which divides the Pulicat Lake from the Bay of Bengal, Pulicat or Pazhaverkadu is located at a distance of 60 km from Chennai. The major attractions of Pulicat are the  Pulicat beach, Pulicat Lake, the Dutch cemetery, an ancient Church and, the bird sanctuary. The Lighthouse opposite the lake and the Mahimai Mikunnda Madha kovil (The Church of the Powerful Mary) are the other places of interest in the Pazhaverkadu town that you can see in one day. There is also an ancient Vishnu temple but the entrance is blocked by its own crumbling walls. Restoration work is supposedly happening, but there seems to be hardly any progress.

There are many Dutch structures like the one below all over the town (esp in the Dutch street) and as a person teaching styling, I immediately thought about the great backgrounds they would make for styled photoshoots.

Pulicat Lake & Beach

Stretching across 481 square kilometers, Pulicat is the 2nd largest brackish water ecosystem in India after Lake Chilika of Orissa. Every year between October and March, thousands of migratory birds can be observed here. Teh board here says that wetland birds like Garganey, Marsh Sandpiper, Gadwall, Shoveler, and Black-tailed Godvit can be seen here. Most notably, during the colder months, the sanctuary is said to attract up to 15,000 Flamingoes.

Unfortunately I went there on an extremely hot, bright, sunny days. During the first visit when I ventured out to sight see for an hour, it was breezy but the second day was unbearably hot. My driver (and guide) told me that the place is very different in October and November. This is when you can go boating on the Pulicat lake, upto to  Annamalaicheri and back and see large groups of migratory birds. We had no such luck. All were saw were a few herons and a couple of ducks. As it was really hot, we decided to drive past the lake on the new bridge a couple of times to take in the sights. Our driver said that you can drive up to the (newly painted) old lighthouse (which my colleagues did on another day) or even hike up to the beach.

The Sea at Pulicat is very rough and the beach is mostly deserted as its not safe for hanging out. But if you pay the fishermen they would take you for a ride into the sea. But be cautious and make sure that your guide and oarsmen are sober before you take that trip. I am not joking, we found a lot of people asleep or passed out on the roadside in the middle of the day.I also heard about many accidents of people drowning in the sea because they were drunk. If you go out boating in the sea insist on a life jacket.

As we were there in the afternoon, our driver forbade us from going to the beach as it was high tide.  I was a little disappointed because I really wanted to see the beach of shells as Pulicat beach is known. I was also keen on the sea boat ride after having had a similar outing at Managalore beach. But better safe than sorry, what say?

The old part of the Pazhaverakadu ruins is largely in ruins. Last year’s Vardah cyclone seems to have taken a toll on an already crumbling village.  So many old houses were left to crumble admidst the old Dutch structures. Instead of restoring them, modern houses and temples are built right alongside them. The Geldria fort, the once Dutch headquarters of the Coramandal coast was no where to be found.

Dutch Cemetery

So what did I see? I saw the Dutch Cemetery and the Pulicat Church. The new Dutch cemetery which was built in 1656 AD houses around seventy seven graves and five dome structures.  Two are conical and three have hemispherical domes. There are cherubs and angles on the last one.

One day at Pulicat dutch tombstone

The huge mausoleums and graves are emblazoned in Dutch and engraved with skeletons instead of the cross. The Skeleton detailing begins at the gate itself. There is one skull in the center and two standing skeletons on either side. It looked and felt very ominous. I have never seen anything like this in real life – only in TV programmes that showcase of Halloweens party decor.

Dutch cemetery pulicat

The graves have been very well conserved by the ASI. The crests were very interesting to look at. There was even one with a knight in full Armour riding a horse. However, I could not get good pictures without stepping on the tombstones which I really didn’t want to do, as it would have been disrespectful to the Dead.

The cemetery gates are locked but the watchman is a local tailor and his shop is nearby. If you hang around the gate for a few minutes, he will magically appear with a key. Not magically, but then word spreads fast enough and he comes there in a few minutes if he is free.

Pulicat Church

Locally called “Mahimai mikundha Madha Kovil” meaning the house of the powerful mother, this church is supposed to be older than Velankanni Church, which is one of the most important churches in India. There is a story of how a log was fished out from the sea and a woodcutter went blind because he struck the log. upon praying ot the log later his eyesight was restored.  The log with vague detailing of Mother Mary holding Christ later became the idol here.

This was very interesting to see as it is very similar to stories of Svayambhu perumal or Svayambhu Lingam at Hindu temples. Svayam means by itself and Svayambhu means that the idol appeared by itself (through force of nature and was not man made). The basement is the real Church and the first floor is a prayer hall. It wasalos  very interesting to see a lot of practices here that you would associate with a Hindu temple. Dwajasthamb had golden plates and people had tyed Thottil (mini cribs) around it to pray for a child.

Travel:

Though there are buses to Pazhaverkadu through Retteri and Red hills, it is better to travel by car. It will take between 2-4hours one way depending on the time of the day. Leave Chennai by 7 AM to enjoy a day’s outing.

Food & Water:

Pulicat is a paradise for Non-vegetarians and sea food lovers for you get fresh catch cooked in front of you. But vegetarians will find nothing to eat. Please take a picnic lunch from Chennai and carry atleast 2-3 litres of water per person if you go in the summer – especially if you plan to go boating or play in the beach

palm leaf products

Shopping:

Apart from sea food items, the must buy items at Pulicat are Palm Leaf products. Do visit the cooperative society here to pick up some lovely yet very inexpensive palm leaf boxes, bags, pouches and rattles. The ladies are skilled in boh thaduku mudhical and kannu mudichal and can quickly whip up bags and boxes. I used the Palm leaf beads that they made in my June ABS Art Bead Necklace here. Mr Chelgavarayan Secretary or Mrs. Kokila the caretaker here also take special orders. If there is an order in Progress, you can see the artisans at work and interact with them too.

Address: Pulicat Women Palm Leaf, Cane and Bamboo and Allied Products Workers Industrial Co-operative Society., IND 393, Pulicat, Thiruvallur district, Tamil Nadu

Madras Checks

The Dutch set up their headquaters here at Pazhaverkadu – intially known as Palaya Kadu (old forest) not to export  spices but to export cloth. The weavers here and at Armagaon (Durgarayapatnam) about 50 km north of Pulicat  used to weave a rough checked fabric that was often used for Lungis. Later when Francis Day, toured Madaraspatinam and its neighbouring areas, he was not just impressed by the hand printed Chintz and blue morees but also the colourful Checks and plaids. The British later called this fabric the RMHK – Real Madras HandKerchief and that in its later avatar became the bleeding madras or Madras Checks. Read more about it in the Madras Musings post by Sabita Radhakrishnan here.

We often travel all over the world looking for history, culture and exposure  but we fail to notice what is there in our own backyard. So this year, enjoy your summer by taking short picnics around your city and knowing more about local culture.

I hope you found it interesting
Cheers

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14 responses to “One day at Pulicat”

  1. Rozantia Petkova avatar

    It sounds like an interesting historical place and a place of natural beauty. Isn’t it sad when you see former glory turning into ruins? At least there will be some evidence of it, not like monuments that have sunk into the past and will never be known.

    1. jewelsofsayuri avatar

      Its very sad. There is atleast 5000 yrs of history in India in terms of places and monuments and hardly a quarter of them are preserved. Ancient countries muat take a leaf out of America’s book on how they preserve just 250 years of history so well

  2. Mia avatar

    It is a great historical place, Divya. Such places need to be preserved!

    1. jewelsofsayuri avatar

      yes, it indeed is a great way to spend a Saturday if you are in Chennai, learning about local crafts and some history

  3. Michelle L avatar

    Great tour, Divya, thanks for the tip about making sure your boat captain is sober! I love beautiful crumbling old temples, even though I know I should love restored places even more. Be safe in the mountains!

    1. jewelsofsayuri avatar

      Haaa, I knew you would enjoy that line 🙂 I just came back from my trip. Just wasted some money on missed train, flight and a room booking but otherwise I am safe and sound.

  4. Neena Shilvock avatar

    It all looks lovely Divya, wonderful pics, well done for bringing a little known place to life on your blog

    1. jewelsofsayuri avatar

      I am glad that you enjoyed it. could only document the grays and browns of Pulicat in Summer but I hope to bring to life the blues, greens, and whites someday.

  5. Shrinidhi Hande avatar

    Long time since our last visit to Pulicat.. should visit again.

    1. jewelsofsayuri avatar

      The roads are quite good now and there is a new bridge. Plan a trip in October to enjoy bird watching too

  6. Maya avatar

    Thank you for showing Pulicat to us Divya. I always enjoy reading travelogues in my desire to learn more about places.
    This is my first time to read about Pulicat and I found it quite interesting.
    Must say that the skeletons do look a bit creepy 🙂
    As for the palm leaves products – have been bumping into them a lot recently on the internet – what a coincidence (or not!). I am amazed that so many beautiful things can be made out of them. Personally, I’d treat myself with a bag 🙂

    1. jewelsofsayuri avatar

      I am a big fan of your travelogues too. I hope to one day visit Europe and I hope that you’ll find time to visit India too. I would love to help you plan a trip. Palm leaf bags and boxes are remarkably sturdy and they can last decades if cared for. I hope you find a bag that you are looking for

  7. PEARL BLAY avatar

    Fascinating!!

    1. jewelsofsayuri avatar

      Hi Pearl, nice to hear from you after a long time 🙂

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